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author
Mike Eaton
This book isnt about promotion (Eaton) surfboards. The storys mine, a California boy who grew up in surfings golden age. I couldnt weigh the gold, but I felt it. It was the age before commercializa...показать большеThis book isnt about promotion (Eaton) surfboards. The storys mine, a California boy who grew up in surfings golden age. I couldnt weigh the gold, but I felt it. It was the age before commercialization and crowds, before the hordes arrived. If I omitted anyone, it was inadvertent. If I included everyone who influenced my life, it would look like the phone directory.
(Mike Eatons adventures include cars, boats, gliders, families, surfboards, and paddling oceans.)
As a Hawaii tale-teller, Mike had me hooked long before we began his lifes story. They usually ended in a chuckle, often at himself. While writing, I gained great respect for a man who kept his smile as he broke records, shaped surfboards, gained friends, and met late-life health challenges. He exemplifies his own advice, Dont give up!
(Virginia Fortner has published poetry, short stories, travel articles, essays, biographies, a novel, At the Edge.)показать меньше